Southwire Ratcheting Cable Cutters, Crimpers & the 117 Multimeter: Honest Comparisons from a Quality Inspector

What I'm Actually Comparing

I'm a quality compliance manager in the electrical industry. In the last 12 months, I reviewed more than 200 tool-related field samples and rejected about 7% of first deliveries for bad terminations. So when people ask me whether Southwire tools are worth the money, I don't answer with brand loyalty. I answer with what I've seen break.

This comparison is between the pro-level route—Southwire ratcheting cable cutters, a proper crimper, and the Southwire 117 multimeter—and the 'good enough' route of manual cutters, basic crimpers, and a cheap meter.

Full context: I spent part of 2024 at the Southwire Douglas, GA facility watching cable undergo insulation and continuity testing. It didn't turn me into a fanboy. It did remind me that field failures often start with the wrong tool.

Dimension 1: Southwire Ratcheting Cable Cutters vs. Manual Cable Cutters

If you're comparing ratcheting cutters and manual cutters, you're really comparing two tolerances for hand fatigue.

Ratcheting cutters use a mechanical advantage to cut in small increments. You can cut copper or aluminum cable with less force, and you get a cleaner, square edge. That matters more than it sounds. A crushed or deformed conductor can fail after it's installed.

Manual cutters are lighter, faster on small wire, and a lot cheaper. For cutting 12 AWG and smaller, they're hard to beat. But the moment you get into 2/0 or 4/0 on a regular basis, the manual tool stops being a bargain.

I've rejected terminations because the conductor was mangled by someone using a tool that couldn't handle the size. A set of Southwire ratcheting cable cutters doesn't fix every problem, but it removes the most common one: trying to cut too much in one squeeze.

Honestly, if you're an electrician who pulls wire every day, this is the one upgrade I'd make first.

Dimension 2: Crimpers—Where Good Work Goes to Die

Next to cutting, crimping is where I see the most quality issues. A crimper that doesn't complete a full cycle can leave a terminal loose enough to pass a casual tug test but fail under load.

Basic stamped-steel crimpers often stop before the die fully closes. Ratcheting crimpers don't let you release until the handle reaches the proper depth. That mechanical lock is a quality control feature, not a convenience.

So here's my honest line: if you're doing one project a year, a simple crimper is fine. But for a contractor who terminates dozens of connections per week, I'd buy a ratcheting crimper every time. I've seen what a loose lug does inside a panel, and the rework costs more than the tool.

Dimension 3: The Southwire 117 Multimeter vs. a $15 Meter

I have mixed feelings about cheap multimeters. They're fine for battery checks and simple continuity tests. But when you're using a multimeter to test voltage on a live circuit, the gap in safety and accuracy becomes real.

The Southwire 117 multimeter has better input protection, a clearer display, and a form factor that actually fits in a tool bag. Is it the only meter I'd trust? No. But for the price, it's the one I usually suggest if someone wants a professional baseline without going overboard.

Here's where I'll admit a limit: I'm not sure why some $15 meters drift so much as they age. My best guess is component quality and lack of calibration testing. In my line of work, an inaccurate voltage reading is worse than no reading, because it leads to bad decisions.

How to Use a Multimeter to Test Voltage

If you've never used a multimeter to test voltage, the steps are straightforward. But test the tester first.

1. Set the dial to AC voltage—usually marked V~ or VAC.
2. Plug the black lead into the COM port and the red lead into the VΩ port.
3. Touch the black probe to a known neutral or ground, then touch the red probe to the hot conductor.
4. Read the display. A standard North American outlet usually reads between 110 and 125 volts AC.

For a car battery or other DC source, set the dial to DC voltage—usually V—or VDC. And if you're not sure whether your meter is working, verify it on a live outlet that you already trust. A zero reading when you expect 120V is a red flag, not a result.

Dimension 4: Total Cost and Consistency

I used to look at tool prices and think 'expensive.' After four years of reviewing failures, I think in terms of cost per finished connection.

At Southwire Douglas, GA, I saw how much time goes into testing cable before it leaves the plant. That made me think about the other end: if the cable is good but the termination is bad, the system fails. A crimper and a meter are the last lines of defense.

This may sound like marketing, and I get it. But the logic is simple. A bad cut costs you connectors. A bad crimp costs you a call back. A bad voltage reading can cost you safety. I'll buy a tool that reduces those odds.

What Should You Choose?

If you do electrical work full-time: get Southwire ratcheting cable cutters, a ratcheting crimper, and a serious multimeter like the 117. That combination covers the three biggest failure points on the job.

If you're a homeowner or occasional maintenance person: don't overspend. A manual cutter, a basic crimper, and a simple meter will handle light work. Just understand the limitations, and learn how to use a multimeter to test voltage before you trust it on a live circuit.

My recommendations come from residential and light commercial jobs. If you're working above 600V or in a utility setting, don't take my word alone—follow your company's approved tool list and testing procedures.

Bottom line: I don't think you need to buy every Southwire tool. I think you need to buy the tools that prevent rework. For me, that means clean cuts, complete crimps, and a meter I can count on.